A walk across the alps and to the sea. Part 2.

„Home is behind, the world ahead

and there are many paths to tread

Through shadows to the edge of night,

until the stars are all alight.“

J.R.R. Tolkien

 Two weeks behind me, two weeks ahead. Walking felt easy now, it wasn’t a burden anymore to get up and walk, it felt more like a gift. The Hohen Tauern National Park with the Goldberggruppe and the Kreuzeckgruppe were crossed. The next weeks we would walk across the Julian Alps and through the Collio region to the coast.

Today would be a holiday. I would cross the Gailtaler Alpen, in comparison to the rest, not much more than a hill. With Peter (P.) and Bernhard (B.), I took a little detour to the Waisacher Alm – and got stuck there for a couple hours. Flowers and plants in hundreds of pots, this Alm was cared for with a huuuuge spoon full of love and the blueberry buttermilk was like Ambrosia. Heaven on Earth.

The sun was burning, and I took the opportunity to wash my cloth and myself in the stream next to me. A few kilometers later I found P.&B. in the river. The perfect bench.

The rest of the day wasn’t very interesting anymore and arriving in Hemagor…well, it started raining at 5pm – just on time when I was looking for a place to sleep. Not being blessed by many other options I moved in at the Kaiser von Österreich (emperor of Austria), but hey – breakfast, bed and company were absolutely royal. One more time, thanks to P. & B.

I left on my own for the ascent to the Karnischer Hauptkamm. How long can a *** forestry road possibly be? Lots of time to think about the answer to the question about life, the universe and everything.

At the end of the road I found a little village with hundreds of horses walking around on the streets. Super cute! I could hardly say goodbye to this place called Dellacher Alm and had quite a few cups of buttermilk while watching horses walk by.

Almost at the end of the day I met B. again. We made a little detour to the summit Starhand. The minute we arrived at the top, the first thunder rolled over us and three seconds later the lightning. Dammit, right above us. Time to get out of here. We arrived at the Refugio Nordio-Deffar, wet to the bones. Somewhere between summit and hut we had also crossed the border to Italy. Woop wooop, wine time.

The next day was pretty short and pretty amazing. I left with the first sunrise and met Nadja on the first meters. It seemed to be a good match and spontaneously I joined her on the way to the summit Oisternig. We reached the cross before the crowd and faced a fantastic view of the Julian alps. Day 17 could not have started any better! Just after midday we passed a little Bavarian bar in Italy also serving Aperol Spritz for 3€. We stayed for a while.

The day ended in Tarvisio. Before I looked for a place to sleep, I wanted to get the supplies for the Julian Alps. However, being a little tipsy after the afternoon Aperol session, logical supply shopping for seven days in the mountains proved to be a little tricky. I had NO clue how to get all that in my backpack.

In Italy was a Christian holiday and the whole town was partying. After a delicious dinner we joined the celebrations and danced until the music stopped. At 2am I picked up my bag and moved to the little square in the outskirts and fell asleep, sticking to my outdoor bed.

With the short night in the bones I walked SLOWLY to the feet of the Julian Alps. 100°C and a boring, paved road. Uff. I was more than happy to arrive at the Weißenfelser See. Not even the thousands of tourists running around like ants could decrease my mood. The second lake was not as pretty but lot less tourists and the prefect place for a very extended break. Very grateful that this day was also pretty short. Being somehow out of mind, I lost my phone on the way. But Karma hasn’t left me – a girl found it and was heading to the same hut. Sometimes… 🙂 The ascent to the Refugio Zacchi was short, the wine good and the views amazing. The nights were clear, and I could see the milky way again, slowly appearing above the Mangart when the night was at last, dark enough. One day I’ll find out which stars I’ve been looking at. One day baby..

 

The Julian Alps.

Early Bernhard and I left to cover the ascent to the first saddle. Just at the top we found the perfect breakfast place at La Porticina. Literally, perfect! He convinced me to unpack me stove for a hot breakfast. A delicious idea! The second we were done cooking, the rest of the group reach the saddle and squeezed next to us on the 2qm of flat rock. Most of the time I was really happy about people, but this morning I was NOT. Squeezing in this corner like fish in a can? I was not amused. But in German we say “Mitgehangen, mitgefangen” (saying if you walk with them you’ll be caught with them). But my mood recovered, and a few minutes later I was again very happy to be with them – on the Slovenian side (by the way, we had crossed the boarder somewhere up there) they forgot to mark the trail. With unified maps and GPS apps we found the right direction and reached the Dom v Tamarju.

A little detour to the waterfall Nadiža, 100m up the hill was the best idea of the day. Bernhard has thought the same and appeared a 2min after me at the top. Heated up by the midday sun and the ascent, we didn’t hesitate and jumped under the waterfall. FREEEEEEEEZZZZZIIIINNNGGG! 5m above the water sputtered directly out of the mountain. Crystal clear and ice cold! WOoOp, COLD but soooo good! Have naked we climbed up to the source – kids do not repeat, climbing along iron sticks in the wall, without shoes and the giant backpack on the back. And what a place up there! Thankfully, this time no one tried to squeeze in next to us.

This would be the last water source for the next couple of days. We filled up the bubbles with 3L and left for the second part of the day. 3L of water, food for six days, the whole equipment and 1000m to cover in the burning sun – every turtle would have passed me. I really haven’t had any problems with the temperature or the altitude, but these days I realized where my personal backpack weight limits were. Thankfully it would become lighter every day.

Apart from the weight, the view from the Sleme saddle was incredible. I was already in love with the Julian Alps – and it was only the beginning yet! The hut was close to a road a few kiosks at the Vršič pass, which supplied us with very refreshing grapefruit Radler and some more water. Instant noodles for dinner and a bed shared with the sheep, I had everything I needed. Good night.

The next day, Jochen left us and the others took the alternative route. According to the book, this day would be the most advanced one.

Along the slopes of El Razor ascended Bernhard and me to the saddle Sedla Planja. It was definitely more climbing close to the edge then the usual hiking days, but nothing too bad. The view at the top was breathtaking. Slovenia’s national mountain Triglav took my heart. What a beauty!

The descent was quick and around 3pm we arrived at a nicely located hut Pogačnikov dom na Kriških podih with a great view to the Soča valley. Unfortunately, the hut was full and the next reachable one would be the one for tomorrow. So, we stayed. The news did not really bother me, I had planned to sleep outside anyway until the sky turned black and a huge storm coming up. Within minutes it was pouring rain and all the people scrammed into the tiny living room. Uuuuff this would be interesting. With this wind outside there was no chance for me to cook, so I tried some Slovenian barley soup. Not my favorite dish but eatable.

An hour later, the storm had decided to move on. I was VERY grateful. We enjoyed the colors of the earth with a glass of red wine. With the last sun rays, I grabbed my equipment and moved to the helicopter site. Well, the rain was gone but not the wind. Setting up my stuff was quite a challenge – seeing my sleeping bag being blown of the edge? Terrible thought!

It was a windy night, but the wind also blew always ALL the clouds and when I peeled my nose out of the sleeping bag, I could see AaaaLLL the stars above me. Slovenian (not) sleeping habits had pulled B. out of the sheets even before me. So, we to spent all the early bird time on a very extended breakfast at the first saddle Dovška vratca. The wind almost blew my Cappuccino oats off, but the view was worth to stay. (I had not found any milk powder for the breakfast in Italy, so bought Cappuccino Powder – which has also milk powder inside. I considered my idea brilliant and premixed it. After a day, I deeply regretted that idea. Tasted like mixing oats with a very strong espresso. Hmpf. Four more breakfast to go.

The descent to the massive Northern wall of the Triglav and the valley Bukovlje shut me up for quite a while. Amazing. The next three hours we hiked upwards to todays’ destination Koča na Doliču . The path was the entire time on an old military road. Crazy what people build to kill others.

The Koča na Doliču was beautifully located at the foot of the Triglav. The outdoor bathroom had to be flushed with melted snow and a bottle of water cost 4,5€. No rain, no water – the consequences of an incredibly hot and dry summer. The other (better) consequence of such a summer are is delicious red wine. At least one problem was solved.

My other issue that night was the sleeping situation. Within 200m radius of the hut I wasn’t allowed to stay and after that there was literally not flat square meter visible for miles. So, I tried the delicacies of sleeping in Slovenian huts myself. Resume: a snoring giant to my right, to squeaky, complaining voices to the left, and at 4am the night was at an end. Hmmmm, thanks – once was enough.

Triglav itself is usually not part of the trail, but the weather was perfect and the required experience in the range. After seeing this mountain from the distance, not much could have changed my mind again. We left the backpacks at the hut and climbed to the top, during sunrise. Glowing peaks and foggy valleys – priceless moments.

We weren’t the only ones at the top. About 30 other people were standing there, coming from all sides – at 8am! Slovenians took their duty serious, to get to the top at least once in a lifetime.

The rest of the day was a beautiful descent, at the beginning through rocks, stones and a few very resistant flowers in between and later through the valley of the seven lakes Dolina Triglavskih jezer with lush flower fields, giant rocks and blue shining, crystal clear lakes. Jumping in the ice-cold water of Jezero v Ledvicah and the day was perfect.

The last 2h of the day needed a little push. We had just decided to go the whole distance of day 22 through the Lopučniška valley when it started raining. I was tired, out of motivation and grumpy with myself. My biggest problem at that moment was the beautiful, lush landscape around me. I was aware of the it, but was to grumpy to enjoy it, what made me even more grumpy. *** up situation.  It took me at least an hour to get over myself, turn off my head and leave the bad mood behind me. That fight with my mindset was a fascinating experience.

Happy ever after, I arrived a little after B. at the Dom na Komni and enjoyed an interesting Sauerkraut soup. Here they had the same 200m rule and so I left, to a little, empty looking, private hut I had passed before. It was just after sunset, I walked around the corner and froze to stone. Someone was standing there. BUT it was just another free camping couple and we shared the yard.

The first sunrays woke me up, crawling over the edge of the mountain. The day began with a flaming red light.

Today I would see the ocean for the first time. 23 days and finally standing at the Globoko pass. Still far away at the horizon, possibly that it would only be a cloud? Wow…  my heart was floating.

B., always a few meters in front of me, waited with a cold Radler at the next hut. Cheers my friend, we made it across the alps!

Instead of descending 1000m along a forestry road, we accepted the offer of a German couple, giving us a ride to Tolmin. When we arrived, the Peters were sitting under the vine. Reunited also with Doris and Luis we cooked a fantastic dinner and celebrated the Julian Alps. I was soo much looking forward to a night in a hostel. Shower & Laundry – if you ever come to Tolima, hostel hildegarden is a fantastic place to be.

Five more days to the Adria. The morning had a bitter taste though. I walked along the world war I defense lines at the Kolovrat. Thousands of people had left their lives there.

The afternoon was better, and we got a little impression, how the next couple days would be like. Walking through the hills of the Collio wine region, trying every now and then a grape or two, picking ripe figs from the trees, trying delicious Collio wines and drinking too much Spritz Bianco. Even the suffering feet could be tamed with all the delicacies. Life is good beyond the Alps.

In Tribil Superiori, a small Italien village we slept and dined at Elisabetta’s place, a lovely soul. I had breakfast with a beautiful view over the Italien hills and visited the place of pilgrimage Castelmonte shortly after. A vineyard in Albana introduced us to the local wine specialties – Friulano, Schioppettino and Malvasia. B. and me, smelly and sticky sitting in a fancy vineyard getting out private wine tasting. Back on (almost) sea level, B. tried to join me for a night under the stars and we found a place next to a church. Without a proper mat, this must have been an uncomfortable night – he never joined me again.

And then we walked and walked and walked along endless rows of vine. These days we didn’t follow the exact instructions of the red book anymore. The recommended stages were either too short or too long, and the daily destinations not so pretty. The days didn’t have not much variance anymore and I had lots of time to think what has been happening in the last 26 days.

I enjoyed a giant pizza in Gradica d’Isonzo and then walked out of town to find a place to sleep. Unfortunately, the town ended with a tunnel into the forest and a couple meters behind it, a glade. There I was: alone, too far from anyone to be heard, at the edge of the woods – a sketchy place. Stupid girl, I thought. One more time, I made much ado about nothing. Only the rain disturbed my nights sleep, but this I could handle.

In the morning I packed my soaked equipment and walked though the last karst of this journey, this time overgrown with plants. Memories from Australia popped up in my head – this area really looked like down under. A minute before the promised storm began, I walked into some visitor center. Closed, but at least with a roof. I had just finished breakfast when a girl walked out of the door. She was also a stranded hiker, escaping from the rain. A few more minutes, she said, and the owner would open the center – which didn’t mean anything else, than a hot cappuccino. Best news of the day! The other amazing news were about the weather. It was supposed to rain for the next 2 days, but after the second cappuccino, the sun came out .

In the next village I ran into an Osmize, some kind of seasonal restaurant with wine and cheese. Dried branches led through the village all the way to the house.

Then I arrived at the ocean. I screamed, I danced, I cried when I saw it and finally stretched my feet into the salty water. Wow. But then, a massive thunderstorm was rising at the horizon, lightnings reaching for the water – the only thing that kept me from jumping right into the flood.

I met Tom, Laura & Miri in Duino. Tom had moved here a while ago and the girls walked the parallel trail Alpe Adria which also ended in this small town. Camping wasn’t possible and accommodation unaffordable. So, I was very happy when they offered me a place on the floor. Also, because the storm, in this region called Bora, did not slow down at all and within 10 sec I’d be soaked to the underwear. We made a delicious dinner together and told us hiking stories from the last weeks. The girls had been on the other trail for almost the same time. Tom had the perfect sound for our journey – Mary, Pippins, Sam & Frodo’s songs along their journey through middle earth.

“To the sea, to the sea! The white gulls are crying,
The wind is blowing, and the white foam is flying.
West, west away, the round sun is falling.“

J.R.R. Tolkien

The weather hadn’t changed overnight. It was still pouring rain, but now there were only 30km between me and my final destination Trieste. There was no way rain would hold me back.

On Rainer Maria Rilke’s favorite path we walked along the coast. At the end we said goodbye to Tom and walked with the ocean to the right and a cliff to the left to Trieste. Around midday on the last day, we arrived in the small town of Prosecco. I had approximately 490km behind me, what else could we do than celebrate this with Prosecco? Intuition lead also Bernhard and Peter to us.

A little bit tipsy and very enthusiastic we walked the last 10km to Trieste. And there it was – the city sign of my final destination. I have no idea how to describe the feeling when I crossed the city boundaries. Something between incredibly happy and somehow lost. And now what?

With the last minutes of the sun, we arrived at the Plaza in Trieste. With a delicious dinner and a crazy night out came this adventure to an end.

All the time I was wondering how it would feel to stop walking. It was ok. I had no more desire to go anywhere once I arrived. On the other hand, if this was not the final destination, I could have been walking for week, or month, or year.. who knows. Walking became the daily task. Wake up in the morning, pack the backpack and start walking. Without thinking and planning a new adventure, a new scenery, a new atmosphere was ahead. Walking became a routine, but no day was like the other. Maybe one day I will walk without a destination.

I spent another four days a few kilometers outside Trieste, watching the ocean and the sun set.

“Es muss das Herz bei jeder Lebensstuf, Bereit zum Abschied sein und Neubeginn               (…)                                                                                                                                                 Wohlan denn, Herz, nimm Abschied und gesunde. – Stufen, Herman Hesse

(With every call of life, the heart must be ready to part and start (…) be off, be well, oh sweet heart of ours.)

Thanks to everyone, who has been part of this summer. With a heart full of new friends and experiences I’m going home.

Deja da vida volar.